algae control

Pond Ionizers For Algae Control

One of the most recent devices to enter the pond care market is something called a pond ionizer and it promises to be a relatively affordable and safe system for helping to control algae in small ponds, water gardens, and pondless waterfalls.

Ionizers are best known in the air purification market and many “air ionizers” have been sold over the years. In simple terms ionizers use electrical power and current to ionize air particles. They add a positive or negative charge to these particles which is purported to purify the air.

A pond ionizer however uses a similar electrical charge which runs through what’s called an anode. The anode is made out of copper and is placed in the water flow line. By controlling the amount of electrical current going through the anode, the release of copper ions can be controlled within in the pond water itself.

Now you may ask, why is this important?

Copper Is Toxic To Algae

Primarily the main power behind copper, in terms of in pond use, is that copper is toxic to many algae types (including string algae and green water) and it can be used to control and kill many algae blooms. This is why copper has been traditionally been one of the main ingredients of algaecide chemicals.

One problem with copper algaecides however, and in this discussion we’re talking about small pond treatments, is that small bodies of water are completely enclose or confined ecosystems. With such small volumes of water, there is not as much room, or buffering for mistakes in dosage, or other changes that can happen when algae is treated with a chemical.

Algaecides can and often are used in koi ponds and many times there are no problems however other people have experienced complete fish loss when products like this are misapplied or conditions are not supportive of the fish during the treatment. Because of these experiences many pond owners have begun to shy away from copper algaecides in smaller ponds and other algae control alternatives are always being considered.

Editors Note: It should also be mentioned that in many areas of the U.S. consideration and concern is also being given to the use of copper algaecides in large municipal ponds and waters. We’ll discuss these in more depth in a future article.

Why A Pond Ionizer May Help

One of the interesting and potentially beneficial features of many pond ionizers is that they have some type of gauge or dial in which the amount of current going to the anode can be controlled. As the current charge rises, more copper can be released and as the current is lowered less copper is added to the water. As yet, these are not self adjusting systems, but they can easily be managed by the push of a button or turning of a dial.

Ideally the pond owner would want to use just enough power/copper to maintain a clear, algae-free pond. This allows the use of the lowest amount of copper in the water, and it allows a longer life of the anode. Most anodes under normal conditions will last a year or longer and then it will need to be replaced to ensure consistent operation.

The water should be tested frequently for copper concentrations (using test strips) and after awhile one can generally get a feel for where the device needs to be set to maintain clear water.

A Few Precautionary Notes

A pond ionizer may sound like the perfect solution to algae control and they will certainly be sold as such by many manufacturers. However some precautions and preconditions need to be kept in mind to ensure safe and effective use.

First, it’s important to follow ALL of the manufacturers recommendations on the units. In most cases mention will be made of the importance of water parameters such as the pH, alkalinity, and hardness of the pond water. The basic numbers would go something like this. pH readings should ideally be in the 7.2 to 7.8 range and this can shift a good bit during the day, as well as when heavy loads of organic material are in the pond.

Perhaps more importantly is the amount of alkalinity in the water. The ideal range for use of an ionizer should be somewhere between 80 to 120 mg/L or ppm’s. Alkalinity levels dramatically affect the copper retention in pond water. A high pH and hardness will increase the precipitation or, in another word, the evaporation of copper in the pond. It either won’t last long enough to do much good or it will disappear so quickly that the copper anode will degrade prematurely.

On the other end of the spectrum, low alkalinity increases the duration of copper and this can be problematic when it’s constantly being added to the water, even in small amounts. In readings where the alkalinity is below 50 mg/L copper can build up to toxic levels over time and may cause harm to fish. In most cases a copper level reading of 0.2 to 0.25 should be safe for fish and be able to control algae.

And finally it needs to be remembered that although the control box and other components of the pond ionizer will last a long time, the one part of the system that will not is the anode. These will dissolve over time to the point where they will need to be replaced. In most situations, one should last for at least a year or possibly longer, however if a pond is fairly dirty, or the alkalinity is running on the high range, then it’s possible that the anode will degrade more quickly. Current market prices for the replacements are running from $80 to $100 and that should be a consideration when comparing this technology to other options. Replacement of the anode is quite simple where the old one is unscrewed and the new one is put in it’s place.

Our Recommendations On Where To Use A Pond Ionizer

Based on the current technology and the parameters mentioned above, some pond experts have concerns about using an ionizer in a pond with fish. To us, this concern is a valid one, despite the fact that many reports indicate that koi pond owners are using the systems with good results. Our suggestion is to follow the axiom of “buyer beware”. If someone does their due diligence and insures that their water quality is fairly stable and within the range suggested for good operation it’s very likely you will have success with the unit and no adverse problems. However pond environments are not static and can change from time to time so it’s a good idea to keep an eye on things to maintain safety levels.

In our opinion, a pond ionizer may have tremendous benefits for those with small ornamental ponds and no fish, or pondless waterfalls. Fountains and other water features may benefit greatly from an ionizer and routine cleaning and treatments can be reduced and in a sense, automated. In the readings that the devices produce, there is no indication that pets or other wildlife will be harmed from drinking the water. (As we noted above the main risk is for fish and only if water parameters our outside the suggested range.)

A pond ionizer can obviously have great benefits to certain pond and water applications since copper is a proven algae control mechanism. Nevertheless, they may not be perfect for every single situation but with some initial research and information such as we’ve provided here, many people will be able to decide for themselves as to whether it might be a good tool for their ponds.

Can Pond Algae Still Grow In The Winter?

by Mark

I’ll share a recent and common question that always comes in during the colder months of the year. This one is from Robert who has a small pond that he keeps open year round. He was somewhat surprised to find algae growing in the water, even with the pond being surrounding by snow and the temperatures are still quite cold. He asks if this is at all normal?

Answer: As odd as winter algae may sound, it’s really not unusual for small pond owners who may choose to keep their pond open all winter long. I remember as well that large ponds can be affected too. It was very early on in my pond management work and I visited a pond in early March that was completely covered in ice. However there was a very healthy algae bloom growing under the inch or two of ice. It was quite apparent that there was ample sunlight getting through to stimulate it, and the pond had historically had algae issues in the summer too so nutrient loading was quite high as well.

For small ponds it can still come down to an issue of nutrients and these, for the most part will run unchecked in cold weather. The normal bacterial systems such as a biofilter and active bacteria will either be shut down or go dormant in really cold temperatures. There are winter blends of bacteria but even the best of these will only work down to about 34 degrees and most “normal” bacteria will stop working below about 45 degrees.

The very healthy beneficial and desirable plants that you might use in summer time are also long gone from the pond, yet some sunlight and some degradation of organic elements in the pond can still continue on, albeit more slowly than in warm weather.

With all of these things combined, algae has a fairly free run and growing. Algae can be a very hardy, adaptable plant and there is often some kind of species of it that will survive in almost any environment. It’s one of the oldest plants known to be in existence today and something doesn’t live that long without having some unique qualities. Simply put, algae can grow, when other things may not function well.

To ease some of the concern, it should be kept in mind that algae isn’t necessarily a bad thing in every single instance. Fish may eat it from time to time and in small quantities it’s probably not anything to worry about. Once everything is operational again, meaning the pond’s filtration system, and the addition of aquatic plants, the algae most likely will go away on it’s own.

If you find algae troublesome in the winter time, applying a bit of hydrogen peroxide (3% solution) or a hydrogen peroxide based treatment like Algae-Off algaecide will usually kill it fairly quickly. This is one of the best ways to treat any algae growing on rocks and will help to avoid having to srub it off. If you find thicker string algae growing, it’s best to remove this by hand, or by mechanical extraction if possible. A pond-safe algae rake would likely do the trick.

Winter time pond algae may seem out of place in a world of white and ice but in fact, it can feel right at home in nearly any condition or environment. Fortunately there are answers to remedy a winter algae bloom if it’s necessary, and with a bit of patience, you may find the problem to be short-lived as the seasons begin to change.

Ultrasonic Algae Control And It’s Uses

by Mark

If you’re old enough to remember the original Star Trek TV show, it’s not much of a stretch to look at todays cell phones and chuckle a little bit at the similarities. Technology is truly shaping life as we know it today and it has many benefits. Pond owners aren’t immune to the benefits of high tech equipment and in particular, those who own large ponds with algae problems may now have a tool that will help.

Ultrasound has found many uses since it’s invention. Many are familiar with it’s medical or dental applications, but did you know that pond algae can be affected as well? It’s true. Ultrasonic algae control is, in some cases, replacing the use of chemical algaecides in an effective and eco-friendly way.

Ultrasonic systems work by using a transducer that’s placed in the water. This component is submerged slightly below the surface and continuously sends out an ultrasound wave which, in effect, creates vibrations in an algae cell. Regardless of what type of algae you’re seeing in a pond, all of them are made up of individual cells. And as these cells become damaged through consistent vibrations, they become disabled or die. In simple terms, this is how ultrasound works.

The technology has been in use for almost a decade now, at least in terms of testing. For the last 5 or 6 years ultrasonic algae control has been used in the U.S. . Like any new application, improvements have been made that improve the performance and effectiveness. It’s important that an ultrasound system uses very precise frequencies. The sounds must match the frequency of an actual algae cell, and the closer they can get to that, the more effective they will be.

It’s estimated that for most algae types, ultrasound will be effective from 70 to 100% of the time. There are algae types that, because of their cellular structure, are more hardy and resistent to the vibrations.

Most green water, or planktonic algae can be affected positively, and many types of string algae can be reduced. Normally, after installation, which is often quite simple using an attached float, the device will remain in the water and running continuously. After several weeks, there should be a noticeable difference in the algae. If a device has been in use for 2 to 3 months or about 90 days, and not gotten results, then it’s most likely due to the type of algae that’s present. In cases like this, ultrasound may have helped to an extent but may need more assistance from other types of treatments such as a short term use of an algaecide.

There are models available to treat most sizes of ponds. In terms of the American made Sonic Solutions models, these range from the ss100 which will treat any pond up to about 100 feet in length, to the ss600 which can be used for very large waters ranging up to about 800 feet.

So how do you know if ultrasound is a viable option for your pond?

First, you may want to test to determine the types of algae that are in your pond. Ultrasonic algae control has been used long enough now to narrow down what it will and won’t work on. The test results can be compared to a database of results and whether ultrasound is worth trying or not.

Trials and rentals are available from some companies and ultimately this is the best way to find out if ultrasound will work. There is nothing quite like putting a unit in a pond to find out how well it will do. Usually these rentals will run about 3 months giving one adequate time to test the effectiveness.

For ultrasound to work, it must have a clear line of sight to affect the algae. Islands or other obstructions in the middle of the pond will affect the performance. Also, the transducer which sits underwater, should not be placed too close to a mud lined bottom. Clearance of about 3 feet or more is helpful for the best effect and reduces the absorbtion of the sounds waves into the mud.

If a pond has harder water in it, calcium and other mineral deposits may routinely form on the transducer head. These should be cleaned periodically with a mixture of warm water and vinegar to ensure optimum performance.

Be sure as well to run the unit continuously once it’s installed. It is the constant bombardment of the sound waves that ultimately affect the algae. And finally, if string algae is the main issue, it is often helpful to use some type of treatment to knock down or kill any algae present, then start the ultrasound system. In other words, it’s best to start with a clean pond and use ultrasound as a deterrent to new growth rather than a treatment for what may be present. Green water can be treated as is without the use of an algaecide.

When these basic tips are kept in mind, ultrasonic algae control has shown very good results in a variety of pond settings and for those who are wanting to cut down on chemical applications or the inherent costs of treating a larger pond, ultrasound may turn out to be a great alternative.

Pond Algae Control Tips

by Mark

Pond algae control honestly isn’t something that most pond owners think of when they’re first starting out. Usually we have visions of a beautiful fish pond full of koi or goldfish, some pristine plants, and a breath taking waterfall. The last thing we think of is everything turning green!

The sad reality though is that for many, the fight against pond algae, and learning how to control it is something most people will have to deal with.

Pond algae can show up in many forms but the most common will be some type of string algae, which is thick strands of growth that may extend up from the pond of the pond or spread across the surface. It would be hard to compare string algae to anything other than maybe spinach which might be good for you, but many people don’t like that either!

Another very common form of algae is green water, which is actually made of up single cell algae of various species. The color of pond water can vary from a light tinting of green or brown to a heavy, seemingly solid soup of green color. One would think that nothing could survive in water like this but the fact is, in most cases, fish will do fine. A pond owner won’t however because they may go months without ever seeing their prized koi.

Algae can be found clinging to the sides of a pond, whether it’s natural or has a rubber liner. Waterfall rocks are also a prime growing ground even though they may have a constant flow of water running over them.

What Causes Pond Algae?

It’s important to realize that algae is like any plant. It needs certain things to grow well, and if those things are present…well you know the rest of the story.

What we’re talking about here are things like ample sunlight, abundant “fertilizer” or plant food, and relatively warm temperatures. Sunlight and temperature are pretty self-explanatory, but what about the food for algae?

If algae were a vegetable most gardeners would get this one right away and particularly when we start talking about compost. Compost is, for the most part, made up of dead organic material that is slowly rotting away or being naturally broken down into other forms of stuff that can be used, consumed or assimilated by something else. Your pond actually has some compost in it too.

It might be dead leaves, grass clippings, dying pond plants, dead algae and other good things like that. Coupled with the waste from fish, you have an organic cocktail that algae will surely love. And it doesn’t matter if your pond is big or small, the same general principals apply (although fish have much less affect in larger waters).

A Common Algae Treatment

Common sense would usually suggest that the best way to handle an unwanted growth of algae is to treat it like a lawn weed. With those most folks would either pull it out manually or try to kill it in some way, and so it is with algae.

Manual removal is really a safe approach to dealing with string algae (it won’t work on green water obviously) but it can also become quite a chore if the algae is growing quickly. After awhile the ongoing frustration may lead to simply wanting to kill the plant with a chemical known as an algaecide. These usually contain some form of copper or copper sulphate which is toxic to most algea.

There may be times when an algaecide is useful and effective but there are also trade-offs in using them. First of all, as we noted above, it’s organic nutrient levels that greatly determine whether algae will thrive or not and as long as they’re present, algae has the opportunity to grow aggressively. This means that if you take the chemical route, you’ll need to use them often to keep things in check. Normally when an algaecide is applied, algae will die off very fast, and this can pose a hazard to fish. When any plant dies, it will pull dissolved oxygen from the water and the fish need this to survive. And some areas around the U.S. are now banning the use of copper algaecides because of an increase in the metal concentrations in their water systems.

Despite the fact that algaecides may not address the root of the problem of algae, they may have some benefit to controlling spots or areas of growth that may be stubborn. Nature however has a better approach in many cases and that’s by using special bacteria to help break down organic elements in the pond and lower nutrients. This is, in a sense, Mother Nature’s pond cleaning mechanism and it works well if it’s supported and natural algae control is possible.

Most of the bacteria that’s doing the work is aerobic which means in needs oxygen to function. Some ponds have good levels and some don’t, and for those that do not, an aeration kit may be very useful. Coupled with some supplemental beneficial bacteria, many ponds can be restored and algae reduced without the use of chemicals entirely.

Small fish ponds benefit greatly from this approach because it’s much safer than using a chemical algae killer. Owners of large ponds can also lose fish because of misapplication of a chemical too, so no one is immune to risk, and therefore, biological tools can be useful on big water as well.

Other Algae Control Tools

In addition to algaecides, beneficial bacteria, and aeration, there are other tools that may help with algae issues. One worth investigation, and particularly if your pond is large, is ultrasound or ultrasonic algae control. This device uses sound waves, specifically tuned to match the vibrational frequency of an algae cell. As this sound wave travels through the water is creates a resonance or vibration in the algae and it begins to break apart.

Ultrasound seems like science fiction but it does actually work and has proven to be effective a good deal of the time. Many industries such as waste water operations are beginning to use it more for controlling algae in lagoons and basins. And pond owners can benefit as well.

Pond dye is another tool that may help with algae problems. Since sunlight is a major support of plant growth, limiting this exposure may reduce algae of various types. It works particularly well on algae at the bottom of a shallow pond.

And finally, many people have heard about, and asked about barley straw. Dried barley straw has been used overseas for many years to good effect and both small and large ponds have benefited somewhat from using it in the U.S. As the straw decomposes in the water it releases several substances which have proven toxic to some types of algae.

Barley straw may not work in every case but when it does it can provide several months of good control and a relatively low cost. The only way to really know if it will be effective in your particular pond is to try it.