Pond Talk – Page 5 – Pond Advice For Small And Large Ponds

Pond Lighting For Small Ponds And Water Gardens

Pond lighting is one of the very best ways to set a particular mood, or highlight certain areas around a small pond or water garden. In this article we’ll provide a few tips and suggestions that will help you choose the right accents for your pond, and we’ll discuss some of the installations that can be done yourself, or when you might want to hire a pro to help.

Pond lighting can add ambiance to your pond and your garden and allow you to enjoy your pond and relax by it after sunset. A pond light is not very expensive to incorporate. You can easily set one or two submersible 20-watt lights into your pond for well under $700.00. You must take care to include proper mounting brackets so that the lights remain in an upright position. These lights can enhance the look of your pond or exterior area almost instantly.

Pond Lighting Options

Floating lights can also be used to improve the look of your pond and the area nearby. This type of pond lighting and underwater lighting can be either solar or electric. There are several types of led and floating lights available today that can be used to adorn gardens and ponds.

Bright LED lights and stellar lights can be placed anywhere without transformers, cords or electrical circuits. You can really set off your landscaping by using solar lights such as stellar lanterns along the path leading to the pond. Pond lights brighten up the surrounding areas and keep frogs and bugs out of your way while you are enjoying your evening snack in the garden. A pond light such as a rock light can give a whole new look to your pond because of its novel rock-shaped design. These low voltage lights can set the mood for the evening by greatly enhancing a plant or rock landscape.

Fiber Optic Pond Lighting

Another new concept when it comes to pond lighting or submersible lighting is fiber optic garden lighting, which can be very useful if your garden has a waterfall. In this case, light is transmitted to the water through cable; a color wheel is also used. However, the disadvantage of using this method is that it can be quite expensive since fiber optic cable itself is expensive.

Landscape Lighting Around The Pond

Oil lamps and candles are inexpensive ways to light up a garden. These minute lighting elements can add great ambiance to the entire setting without increasing your power bill drastically. This type of lighting also suggests that not every form of light needs to go in the pond itself. Much of the mood, as well as safety around the pond can be enhanced through the use of well placed landscape lighting. Some of these lights can be hidden in faux rocks, and conventional solar lighting can be used near walkways to create a safer environment.

Halogen Or LED Pond Lights?

Halogen lights cannot be considered superior underwater lighting because they may not last for a long time. When they fail, the pond has to be drained because it may not be safe to leave a failed garden lighting element in the water for a long time. LED lights that go in the water are a cost effective and viable alternative to halogen bulbs. The best advantage of using LED lighting for ponds is that it can emanate an array of colors and make all the other decorative pieces such as fountains and statues glow in splendor.

Individual features such as sculptures, rocks and waterfalls can be accentuated through various types of lighting. These lighting elements can cause a waterfall to sparkle or illuminate pieces of rock most appropriately. Most landscapers use pond lights such as LED lights for homes because of their economical nature. Pond lighting even with safe LED technology is a task that you must leave to the professionals. An experienced landscaper best installs these lights. He will mount them in the correct locations to get the desired results.

Pond Weed Control And Treatments

by Mark

There are many things that can grow in a large pond or lake. Algae is one of the more common things you’ll find but along with that, or in place of it, a pond weed will take root and sometimes take over a pond or water way. Some of these aquatic weeds can be very invasive and the more well established they become the harder they can be to control. In this article we’ll talk about some of the more common pond weeds one might find across North America and we’ll provide some tips on the best ways to control them.

Cattails And Emergent Plants

By definition, emergent plants grow mostly around a pond, in shallow waters or along the shoreline. For most of us around the U.S. the most common of these would be cattails, reeds, Pennywort, or Bulrush. Because they are usually within easy reach, many people try to remove these manually by using a pond weed rake, or with some heavy equipment and often enough this can help keep them in check for a time.

If a pond owner is unable to physically remove the plants then an aquatic herbicide is likely the best option, and this generally goes for any type of aquatic weed as well. Remove them if you can, treatment if you must. A product called Shore Klear, combined with an activator such as Cide Kick is usually recommended to treat emergent plants. Shore Klear is sprayed directly on the plant and is only good for those that extend above the water’s surface. It doesn’t work well with submerged growth, however it is highly targetable and works well on many emergent pond weeds.

The Pondweed Familly

The term “pondweed” actually represents a species of plants that has over a dozen varieties of pond weeds that can be found in large ponds. A few of the more common plants include Curly Leaf, Large Leaf, Clasping Leaf, and Sago. It’s not as critical to determine the variety since treatments are consistent within the entire family. You’ll know you have a pondweed species when you see fairly long, vine like stems, with leaves branching off of them at different spots. Most leaves are long and slender however this can vary a bit. Sago as an example doesn’t have leaves to speak of, and you may only see very small vine extensions coming off the main stem. This type of plant can sometimes grow in water as deep as ten feet if it is pretty clear and you’ll often see it extending to the surface where it will spread out.

Several broad spectrum aquatic herbicides will work well on pondweeds. Aquathol Super K and Hydrothol are both granular products that can be broadcast over the plant growth and will usually work well to control growth.

Duckweed And Watermeal

Duckweed is one of the more obvious pond weeds since it only floats on the surface of a pond. It’s fast growing and can overtake a large body of water pretty quickly. Free-floating blooms of it will be blown by the wind and may move around the surface of the pond. If you look at duckweed closely you’ll see a somewhat flat, pod-like pellet that has several hair like roots coming off of it. In great numbers they may appear to be a solid mass on the water but they are in fact, individual plants that are pulling their nutrient support directly from the water.

A pond may go without having any issues with duckweed for many years, however the plant can come in, while attached to waterfowl and when conditions are right it will bloom, seemingly out of nowhere.

Watermeal is similar to duckweed however in appearance it’s much smaller in size with what appears to be very fine green grains however once again, when these are dense enough they will cover the surface of a pond.

Physical removal of duckweed is sometimes possible but usually the best course to take is to use some type of herbicide to control the plant. These should ideally be applied early on in the growth, before it becomes widespread on a pond. A product called Sonar, which contains a chemical called fluridone is usually suggested for duckweed control. White Cap is another brand. For a more eco-friendly option a new product on the market called Elemna8 may provide desirable results as well.

Waterlilies Are Good But…

Waterlilies add beauty to any pond that they grow in. No question about that. They also can help provide shade and protection for fish, and work to outcompete unwanted plants like algae. However waterlilies are also really good at growing and they can overtake a pond if they are not managed somewhat.

If you find that waterlilies are getting the upper hand there are several things you can do. Manual removal is an option if they’re not too heavy. Apart from that a product called Navigate can be applied to control them. After blossoms have appeared Shore Klear can be used to good effect.

Invasive Plants Include Hydrilla And Water Hyacinth

Of all the pond weeds that may cause problems for larger ponds, there are several that are so invasive, fast growing, and prolific, that they are now creating a number of issues in various states around the country. Water Hyacinth (Eichornia crasipes) for example is a plant that’s actually native to South America. It’s actually a popular plant to add to small ponds and water gardens, however it infested freshwater areas from the east cost to the west coast and is very troublesome in the southeast U.S. in particular. In many cases a non-native species can harm desirable local species as it chokes them out over time.

Other waters which may be used for irrigation or cooling can become infested and clog up systems or in the case of Hydrilla in Texas, some lakes there have become so heavily burdened that recreation and navigation are being restricted.

It doesn’t take much of the plant to get a foothold and since conditions are often ideal in the southern United States, the plants can grow and spread very quickly. Some control measures include various herbicides but there are also trials underway using biocontrols. M. scutellaris is a small bug native to South American that feeds very specifically on water hyacinth and they may provide a non-chemical way to keep the plants in check.

Where invasive plants are concerned, the best option is to limit their spread by simply not introducing them into the area’s water ecosystem. Small pond and aquarium owners who may benefit from the plant need to make sure they are disposed of properly. If they are removed from the pond or tank, be sure they are dead for about two days before disposing or insure that they come nowhere near a water source of any kind. It has shown the ability to survive in water in trash cans or buckets. They should never be dumped live into a a nearby lake or stream as they wil likely infect the water in short order.

Pond Weed Control Tips

Along with the recommendations that we’ve included for various plants, as a general rule it’s best to attempt the treatment of many pond weeds as early as possible in the growing season. Most species don’t grow well in cold or cooler weather and in many parts of the country that may freeze in the winter, the plants will go away entirely only to return again in the spring. Treating as the plant is just emerging will often allow less use of any chemicals simply because the plant may be more isolated, and they tend to be weaker at that time as well. This also tends to be much safer for fish populations because during any treatment where a rapid die off of plants occur there is the chance of oxygen depletion in the water.

It’s also important to clearly identify what the plant is that you have growing in your pond. Ideally you don’t want to guess and just simply start trying to treat it. Many species require specific types of products for the best control. The University of Florida offers a helpful website for aquatic plant identification as does Texas A & M University. Use these resources if you’re not absolutely sure of what you have growing in your pond or lake.

Windmill Aeration For Ponds

by Mark

Large ponds benefit tremendously from aeration simply because nothing will do more to increase oxygen levels and circulation in the water. This greatly improves the health and natural vitality of a pond and it can protect and provide an improved home for fish and other wildlife. Pond aeration systems normally run on electrical power which can limit the places where they can be installed. Or it used to be that way. Windmill aeration kits are changing that.

It’s funny in a way that some windmill aerators are thought of as something new. If you travel around the midwest, it’s not uncommon to see old farmsteads that still have windmills standing nearby. Most are not operational any longer but in the old days this was the way fresh water could be pumped to the surface for people and for livestock.

This same technology is now being used to generate electrical power to homes an industry and as of this writing. Texas and Iowa lead the way in wind power generation.

Today’s windmill aerators for ponds also use the power of the wind to drive a compressor pump which forces air through an airline, down to a diffuser which sits at the bottom of the pond. This is very conventional in terms of how it works, and what it does for a pond system, and the only difference between a windmill aerator and an electrical one is the power source. Actually we should clarify that and say, it’s not the only difference but it is the primary one.

Beyond that it’s also important to understand that because of this power source there are other differences that should be compared to decided whether a windmill aerator is right for your pond.

Modern windmill and pump technology has closed the gap on wind driven and electric powered aerators. One of the top windmill aerators on the market today is being constructed by Outdoor Water Solutions and their windmill system will produce about 3.0 to 4.5 CFM (cubic foot per minute of airflow) and is very comparable to a 1/4 HP electrical compressor. This output of course is based on adequate wind speeds. This is the one primary difference between wind driven systems and electric or solar powered aerators. The wind must be blowing for it to work at all.

Due to improved aerodynamics of the fan blades, efficiency has improved quite a bit and even the lightest winds will provide some degree of aeration. Most of the windmill aeration kits that you’ll find on the market can be erected to stand somewhere between 12′ and 25′ which also helps expose the windmill to air currents.

The Windmill Aeration Compressor System

The vast majority of windmill aeration kits that are sold today use a diaphragm pump or compressor. These have the potential output of something like 30 psi which allows them to be used at depths up to about 50′ and they tend to provide a very reliable output of air and performance. For windmills you’ll find two different diaphragms available. These are termed single or double diaphragm compressors. The single diaphragm will produce a shot of air with every full turn of a fan unit where a double diaphragm provides air with every half turn of the windmill. For obviously reasons, the double diaphragm system will provide higher CFM and output and is generally more desirable.

The diaphragm component is usually made of a flexible rubber membrane which is attached to a push plate. Because this is the primary “active” part of the compression system it is most likely to wear out eventually and may need to be replaced. Replacement kits are widely available and are easy to install for the most part.

Output of the windmill systems today usually produce somewhere between 1.5 to 3.2 CFM. This output will of course be based on wind speeds but also the size and design of the fan as well. Larger bladed fans will usually produce better output.

Support structures for the windmills can be found in three leg, four leg, and single pole configurations. Some of the single pole models can be easily erected or lowered through a telescopic feature which can make repair work quick and easy. Most models use a metal beams for the base, however a more rustic wood frame was introduced recently which some people might prefer.

Windmill Aerator Costs And Features

If there were one main redeeming feature of windmill aerators it would be that they will generally offer a continual benefit with a one time cost. For their output, they are much more efficient and powerful than most solar powered aerators at the moment, and there are no additional costs for electricity. Most electrical systems will cost somewhere from $10 to $30 per month to operate so this becomes an immediate savings on windmill systems.

Purchasing costs are similar between the two systems with a single diffuser package costing around $995 to $1,395 depending on the brand and model. In most cases as you add diffusers or need a larger unit, the costs will go higher because of that demand.

All of the models of windmill aerators today with descriptive and helpful user and installation manuals. It’s important to follow the manufacturers recommendations closely to ensure the proper set up and operation of the aeration system. Some of the more popular brands of windmill aerators include the OWS line, Koenders, Superior, and American Eagle windmills.

How To Effectively Deal With Pond Fish Problems

by Mark

A sick pond fish, no matter what kind it is (koi, goldfish, etc) is one of the most disconcerting things that a pond owner will run into. It’s stressful, worrysome, and can make any fish-loving person have some sleepless nights.

For some fish ailments, there isn’t always a simple and easy answer to remedy everything, however we’ll try to break down some proactive steps you can take to improve the situation for your fish and perhaps bring them back to good health and vitality. In a sense this is a useful step by step checklist that you can use anytime you run into problems.

Obviously when you first notice problems you’ll want to review several things and ask some basic questions with an attempt to narrow down the possibilities of what’s really going on with the fish. Is it a widespread issue or is an individual fish affected? What are the symptoms? What’s changed in the pond environment? And if we want to cover, at least at a baseline level, the main culprit in most fish illnesses we would need to ask ourselves one simple question (albeit, there are a variety of answers) and that is “what is it that might be causing stress to the fish?” Finding the answer to that question will often provide clues to the root cause of whatever your fish may be dealing with.

Why is the source of stress our primary focus? Well, according to a number of veterinarians and experts on fish health, stress, regardless of the source, can often hinder the immune system of a fish and make it very susceptible to any number of ailments or diseases. Along with other things like water quality problems in the pond, or injuries and poor nutrition, each component can add up to problems for any kind of pond fish.

Diagnosing The Possible Source Of Stress

Here’s a few things to check to help narrow down what may be causing your fish health issues or could be a main source of stress.

Have the fish been handled or transported recently?
Are the fish experiencing seasonal changes? (mainly coming out of winter)
Are fish over or underfed?
Have you tested the pond water for ammonia levels? (ammonia test strips)
Have you tested the pond water for high nitrites? (five and one test strips)
And what about nitrates? (five and one test strips)
Have you tested pH? (five and one test strips)
Do you suspect low oxygen? (don’t assume a waterfall or small fountain will be enough in deeper ponds in the hot summer months)
Have you checked fish loading? (overstocked ponds often have water quality or health problems)
Is your flow rate through the pond filtration system adequate? (ideally the full gallon volume will circulate about one time per hour or so)
Check your water temperature. (consider that warmer fish are normally healthier and less stressed plus fish medications are often not as effective in colder temperatures)
Inspect for any dangerous places in the pond. (are there any sharp edges on rocks, mechanical devices, etc that may injure a fish?)
How clean is the pond? (a natural pond doesn’t have to be pristine but it should be maintained in a relatively clean condition)

Common Fish Disease Causations

Consider bacterial infections. (it’s important to get an anitbiotic into the fish but only after water quality and other root causations have been addressed)
Also consider fungal infections. (these are common in koi that are stress or debilitated)
Attack parasitic infections if they are suspected.
Consider viral infections. (KHV – koi herpes virus is the most lethal and problematic because it can be spread so quickly and affect many fish in a pond)

Preparation Tips

Be sure to keep pond salt and some simple/common treatments on hand should you need them.
Have quarantine capability.
Use professional resources as needed for diagnosis, evaluation, and treatments if possible.

Consider bacterial infections. (it’s important to get an anitbiotic into the fish but only after water quality and other root causations have been addressed)
Also consider fungal infections. (these are common in koi that are stress or debilitated)
Attack parasitic infections if they are suspected.
Consider viral infections. (KHV – koi herpes virus is the most lethal and problematic because it can be spread so quickly and affect many fish in a pond)
Be sure to keep pond salt and some simple/common treatments on hand should you need them.
Have quarantine capability.
Use professional resources as needed for diagnosis, evaluation, and treatments if possible.

As you can see this is a fairly long checklist so let’s expand on a few of these topics and bring a bit more clarification to why these are important things to check and why they affect fish stress so much.

Fish Handling, Transportation, Seasonal Changes, And Feeding

Fish, like most wildlife, don’t like to be handled all that much. Capture and extraction from the water is, in itself, a traumatic event, as is transportation to a new pond. Touching an holding a fish should be minimal because it can disturb the natural and protective slime coating on their skin which once reduced can make infections easier to take root.

Fish generally prefer warmer water and their immune systems tend to work better in water temperatures in the mid 70’s. As water temps drop and things cool off, fish tend to become more sluggish and their entire system slows down. In good health they can handle these kind of changes and do just fine, however if the immune system is compromised they may not handle things as well. Winterstress is a time of particular concern when the weather is moving from cold to warmer spring weather. As things warm up again, immunity will eventually improve once again.

Many people wonder how much they should be feeding their fish and it’s a good question to ask. As a rule of thumb it’s good to feed fish about as much as they can consume in five minutes time. Feed them slowly so that the food does not sink and go to waste. By maintaining reasonable feeding amounts and scheduling you’ll have the best chance of avoiding water quality problems and maintain healthy fish.

It’s generally hard to overfeed fish and when they aren’t showing any further interested in eating or when the weather cools off below 50 degrees water temperature, then the feeding routine should be slowed or discontinued. Thin fish can often be identified because they will have a very slender body and large head in proportion to the body. Koi that are slow to grow, may be underfed as well.

Testing Your Pond Water

Every pond owner should get familiar with testing the water in their pond on a routine basis. Really only two testing tools are needed for the most part. Ammonia test strips test for ammonia of course, and 5 and 1 test strips will check for nitrites, nitrates, ph, alkalinity, water hardness. These are all useful to know but most important are the ammonia and nitrite readings. Both of these elements can be toxic to fish and cause widespread problems in a pond. They are easily kept in check with beneficial bacteria supplementation and should you find any readings, some partial water changes over a period of several days will usually help to bring readings back into line.

pH readings are useful to know since this reading can affect not only fish health and stress. Ammonia can become more toxic in higher pH ranges and in low pH ponds, there may not be much buffering capacity which can create wide swings throughout the day. Fish would prefer a fairly stable pH reading at or above 7.0 and they can often easily tolerate readings up to 9.0 and a bit beyond it. Some pond treatments and medications may also be affected by pH readings so it’s a good idea to get a reading on it before doing anything.

Low Oxygen And Your Fish

In warmer weather, pond water will not hold dissolved oxygen molecules as well as it can during cooler weather. So when the heat of summer raises the water temperature above 78 degrees, it’s time to keep an eye on the fish to ensure they are not gasping for air, or appearing to be distressed. Many people assume that a waterfall or small fountain will help with oxygen levels and while this is true to a point, if a pond has much depth, it may not help much in the deeper parts of the pond. A small pond aerator may help protect the fish enough to avoid any problems even during hot weather.

An important point to note here as well is that during the summer, algae often can grow well in a small fish pond. People may want to treat this problem directly but in doing so, if they kill the algae off quickly with a chemical, oxygen can be pulled from the water as the plant dies off. It’s therefore important to maintain very good oxygenation during these times to keep your fish safe.

Fish Loading, Pond Filtration, and Pond Cleaning

Too many fish in a pond for it’s size will inevitably cause problems. It always needs to be remembered that small ponds are enclosed systems with a limited amount of water volume and limits on a pond filtration system’s ability to deal with various things in the water. There are several ratios that are mentioned from pond experts in terms of the amount of fish per gallons of water but a very good conservative number would be one inch of fish per ten gallons of pond water. Less is even better, and more can lead to a number of problems with water quality. Fish waste can build up and not be adequately handled which may lead to ammonia spikes, or algae problems due to the high nutrients in the water.

Many people might treat an algae bloom, and this includes green water and string algae, with an algaecide, however this does nothing to address the root cause of it all, which is excess fish waste due to high fish loads. Good pond filtration will help with this of course, and one potential step would be to upgrade or increase the size and capacity of your pond filter. However at some point, you’ll likely reach a threshold where a pond reaches it’s limits and problems can ensue from there.

Speaking of good pond filtration, it’s obviously important that the system be of adequate size and capacity to filter out the gallon volume of the pond, as well as handle an estimated number and size of fish in a pond. It does little good to install a pond filter that’s undersized because they simply won’t help that much. Also it’s critical that the flow or circulation rate of the water be moved in enough volume to allow the entire gallon amount of the pond to pass through the pond filter about once per hour or so. This will insure that the water is being filtered well enough to remain clean, balanced, and healthy.

Normally a cleaner pond is a healthier pond so routine maintenance is a good practice to maintain fish health. Pond vacuums are very popular today and in widespread use and they do help keep sediments, debris, and all kinds of things from building up. Their prices vary widely so it’s worth shopping around to find the best setup for your pond.

Bacterial, Parasitic, and Viral Infections

As bad as the word “infection” might sound, many of these issues can be dealt with fairly easily with the right kind of treatment. It’s important to use as targeted solution as possible but fortunately many conditions can be treated by salt baths, warmth, oral antibiotics, or other medications.

One of the very best diagnosing tools that you’ll find online is at KoiCrisis.com . You can diagnose many issues by behavior or visible signs and there are lab diagnostics available as well. This is about as thorough a resource as you’ll find and it’s run by an experienced veterinarian that can provide sound advice for anyone with a fish in crisis.

Many fish disease is an isolated case with only a single fish being affected. However it’s also not uncommon to see certain ailments cause widespread harm to an entire fish population in a pond. It’s due to cases like this when it’s useful to have the capability to quarantine a sick fish at the earliest signs of trouble. This doesn’t have to be an elaborate set up but you need a way to provide a controlled tank that can hold the fish for a while in comfort. Water temperature can be more easily managed, and medications can be more easily administered to a single fish in a confined space. Prudent use of a fish quarantine station may end up being the best tool to keep the vast majority of your koi or gold fish safe.

This article is quite lengthy but it’s hard to provide a summary of everything that needs to be considered when you have a fish that’s showing signs of distress. There is a lot that you’ll want to consider and evaluate when you try to pinpoint where the source of a problem may lie. Doing so however is the best approach to take to end the problem quickly and restore your fish to excellent health. We hope this information will help you do that in some way should you ever run into a problem.

Improving Pond Fish Digestion

by Mark

What you’re about to read may seem far-fetched our just plain weird but did you know that feeding your fish a pea, just once a day for awhile, can help with digestive problems? According to some veterinarians with experience in fish health, it’s possible.

One of the signs of digestive issues with fish may involve the fish becoming sluggish or it may appear to be disabled in some way. You may find it floating on it’s side, as one of our readers did, or upside down sometimes. The fish may have a tough time regulating it’s depth in the water or just not look right.

A goldfish, as well as other carp related fish, have an interesting digestive tract structure in that the esophagus has an open connection to the swim bladder. It’s the swim bladder that controls the buoyancy or floating capability of the fish. If food get’s impacted in some way the area can get infected and inflamed which will cause further problems.

Affected fish, may remain alert, continue to eat and appear to be healthy overall. The condition may correct itself or it could lead to a permanent condition. Other fish in the pond will usually remain unaffected.

It’s always a good idea to consult with an experience vet if your fish should get sick or show signs of illness. Usually it’s not a bad idea as well to provide some way to quarantine the fish for a time in order to either treat it or limit any problems with your other fish.

One of the most simple and easy things to try if you suspect a food impaction in a fish is to feed them the simple green pea. Whether the pea is freshly cooked or from a can you simply want to crush it slightly and then feed one pea a day to the affected fish. It’s not really understood how this helps, but in many cases the pea diet will help dislodge any air-filled or lighter food that may become trapped.

Its also suggested to raise the water temperature up to about 75 to 80 degrees f. to improve digestion and you can feed regular commercial fish food as normal. It’s recommended to avoid feeding any flakes or floating food that may have a bit lighter weight than you would want to feed at that time.

Within a few days, if all goes well, your fish will have a restored and functional digestive system without any blockages and the buoyancy issue will return to normal as well. At the very least, a few peas are cheap and they are safe enough to try as a possible remedy.

For additional information on steps you should take when dealing with a sick fish, please visit our recent article titled A Simple Pond Fish Problem Checklist .

Duckweed And Watermeal Treatments

by Mark

Duckweed is one of those pesky aquatic weeds that can be very hard to control once it get’s up to speed in a large pond. It’s fast growing, durable, and often not controlled by just any old aquatic herbicide or treatment. In this article we want to explore duckweed in more detail and help a pond owner accurately identify it and offer treatment options which may be helpful in keeping it from taking over a pond.

Duckweed Identification

Common Duckweed (Lemna minor) is an aquatic plant that’s sometimes confused with algae. However it’s very identifiable and quite different in appearance that most algae. Duckweed looks like very small, bright green beads or pellets that appear somewhat flattened. You would find several small “roots” extending from the main body of the plant. Duckweed colonizes in masses and will float freely atop the surface of the pond. It’s usually found in very still or stagnant water in pond with ample nutrients to feed it.

As the name implies, duckweed is often transported from pond to pond by waterfall and they often like to eat the plant. In very limited amounts, duckweed, or it’s smaller relative, watermeal, will not pose any problems but when conditions are supportive of it, the plant can grow rapidly and soon cover the entire surface of a pond. Usually it’s best to avoid this if possible because there is a risk of oxygen depletion in the pond is higher. This of course is not good for fish stocks. Having aeration running in a pond will help guard against this issue but it also may be advisable to try and control the duckweed growth before it overtakes the pond.

Duckweed Control Options

Several viable options exist for controlling duckweed in farm ponds and large bodies of water. Choosing a particular method would depend primarily on the size of the pond, the budget a person might be working with, or a person’s personal philosophy as to whether they would choose to use chemical herbicides or take a more eco-friendly route.

Editor’s Note: It’s usually suggested to treat any pond weed as early as possible in it’s growth cycle to get the best results. If a plant growth is well underway, there is a greater chance of oxygen depletion as it dies off following treatment.

One of the most environmentally friendly options for removing duckweed from a pond is to use some type of skimmer which can manually remove the plant from the water. Since duckweed floats well, it is possible to skim most it off and transport it away from the pond. This offers a chemical free and inexpensive method of control, although it may not always eradicate the plant completely from the pond. To get more information on a useful design watch this video on duckweed skimmers.

Other mechanical skimming options exist that are more advanced than a simple rope, however many of these systems are quite expensive and would likely only be a viable tool for pond management companies to use.

In recent years, one of the more popular and widespread treatments for duckweed is Fluridone. This chemical comes in several brand names such as Sonar and White Cap. This concentrated liquid is relatively expensive but about 8 oz of product (at just under $200 retail price) will treat up to a surface area of 1/4 acre. Fluridone inhibits the plant’s ability to produce carotene and limits it’s production of chlorophyll.

Under normal circumstances it’s recommended to treat the entire pond surface and not spot treat with the herbicide. Once treated, usually the plant will die off over several weeks time and one shouldn’t see any regrowth for the remainder of the season.

Up until recently, Sonar and a few other herbicides were about the only solutions for treating duckweed. In some instances, the use of beneficial bacteria has helped keep duckweed under control, but only if the plant has not progressed to covering the pond. Once it’s well underway, most people had to resort to one of the methods mentioned above, or they would simply leave it alone. Once cool weather arrives the plant will naturally die off and disappear.

In the last year or so however a new, organic and non-chemical solution has been developed which is showing great promise with duckweed control. The product is called eLemna8 and it contains various organic products including turpin oil and concentrated enzymes. What’s interesting about eLemna8 is that it effectively helps to dissolve the protective wax coating which is found on the duckweed petal. It then makes the plant vulnerable and it will begin to die off slowly as the enzyme component begins to break the plant down. The process can be sped up by combining eLemna8 with a herbicide, however the amount of chemical necessary for control is usually much less than if it were used alone. After the duckweed has been killed, it’s not a bad idea to add some beneficial bacteria to the pond to help speed up it’s breakdown completely.

So despite it’s natural durability and propensity for growth, duckweed is a plant that can be effectively controlled in various ways. As noted above, and regardless of what method you may choose to use, the best advice is to treat it early, before it has a chance to take over the surface of a pond. Doing so will allow you to treat it safely in regards to maintaining fish health, and you’ll have an easier time at keeping in check with less chemical use and/or manual effort on your part.