Mark

Farm Pond Algae Control

Every summer the ponds around us turn green. Some don’t of course but many do and the culprit is some type of pond algae. Algae is on of the oldest forms of life on earth and it thrives when certain conditions are met and farm ponds just happen to have many of these in abundance.

In this article we want to address some of the reasons why a pond may develop an algae problem and more importantly what you can do to clear things up. Larger ponds and small lakes are not always the easiest or most inexpensive to treat but clearing can be achieved by taking proper action.

What Causes Algae?

Algae, like any plant will need certain things to survive and thrive. Namely it will require ample sunlight and adequate levels of nutrients to support it. These nutrients may come in the form of phosphates, nitrates, nitrates, or other organic elements. They enter the water through run off or may build up as organic things such as leaves or grass clippings fall into the pond and begin to decay. In simple terms I’ve always compared this to compost in a garden. You add decaying organic material in there to help your veggies grow and the same things will help algae grow well too.

Larger ponds and small lakes are almost always impacted by environmental factors like this. Other things, like heavy fish populations that might affect a smaller pond, will normally not support abundant algae growth in a larger one.

Light exposure as well will support algae and this is why shallower waters tend to have algae growing in them first (or if they are around the edges of a pond run off could create this too). Some single cell algae will in fact rise and fall in the pond during it’s daily cycle. In the morning it will come to the surface to pick up energy from the sun through photosynthesis. At dusk it will sink once again to spend the night at the bottom of the pond.

As the weather warms in spring and summer, and sunlight becomes more plentiful, algae will tend to grow more prolifically. In fall and winter it’s often not as much of a problem, however in ponds with high nutrient loading, you may see algae growing under the ice in the early spring.

Algae Control 101

Knowing the things that support algae is really the first step in figuring out the best way to control it. After that we can narrow down our options into a sensible plan of attack. In shallow waters, something like pond dye or a tinting additive will help limit the algae’s exposure to light. These come in several shades such as blue, black, or a combination of the two. They are relatively affordable and can last a month or more in many ponds. The turnover rate or amount of rainfall may affect this time somewhat.

Other common options usually include some form of chemical treatment such as with an algaecide, biological treatments, or some type of manual removal, although the latter isn’t very easy to do in big bodies of water.

Algaecides Kill Algae But…

Over the years it’s been a traditional thing to try and kill the algae growth outright with something like an algaecide. Most of these contain some form of copper in them, and this is because the substance is toxic to algae. Algaecides can and do work well in at least clearing the surface of the algae problem. One drawback to using them however is they support the build up of organic material at the bottom of a pond and this, unfortunately, can support more algae growth.

For an algaecide to be used correctly, it’s best to apply them as a preventative measure rather than a treatment. If algae can be controlled early on before it takes over the pond, the build up of dead matter at the bottom is reduced and many times less chemical can be used in the process.

If algae can be brought under control, the pond may stay clear for some time, or applying the algaecide may become a matter of routine maintenance.

The Beneficial Bacteria Connection

One of the most useful things found in a natural farm pond is the existence of beneficial bacteria. These are good bugs and microbes that nature has designed to help keep the pond cleaner. They help clean up muck and organic material at the bottom of the pond and can even consume some of the nutrients from run off and organic decay.

Because they prefer some of the same thing that algae does to thrive, they can quite often out-compete algae for these resources. When they do, algae of all types (other than Chara) may regress and disappear. This makes them a valuable ally to farm pond algae control and supporting their health and vitality is a good step to take.

It’s important to note that many chemicals, including copper algaecides, will hinder or knock down this bacteria. Therefore if chemicals are applied, it’s often suggested to supplement or add fresh bacteria into the pond to help replenish them. There are many brands and blends of bacteria on the market but they are all intended to work in a similar way in a lake. Some are temperature sensitive so the blend may be changed depending on the season and conditions.

Pond aeration helps to add oxygen into pond water and this is a very useful step to support beneficial bacteria since this is primarily aerobic in nature. Higher oxygen levels will help them thrive and increased circulation will provide increased mobility throughout a large pond.

Algaecides and bacteria do not work together well in most cases and cannot be combined, therefore it’s important to decide or plan out your intended algae control method before you start treatment of any kind. Pound for pound, biological control may cost more in the beginning compared to a chemical application, however as we’ve noted earlier, if chemicals are misapplied, they can take a pond in a poor direction and create more problems later on.

What About Barley Straw?

Finally we would be remiss to not talk a bit about barley straw. Many old farmers swear by it for algae control and there is some merit in their words. Historically barley straw has been used in Europe for some time and in recent years it’s made it’s way to the U.S. It works well in some ponds and in others it seems to provide no great help at all.

Recent research by several universities including Ohio State have shown that barley straw is best when it’s thoroughly dried and bundled in a bale or mesh material. In tests it appears to work best when it’s applied before algae has shown up in a pond and may retard new growth. It seems less effective on algae that is already present.

A one acre pond would likely use about 2 to 3 standard bales and these can last up to 3 or 4 months before they would need to be replaced.

Barley straw releases a substance as it decays and some experts believe this breaks down into a very light form of peroxide which damages new algae cells. Further research however is necessary to determine why and how the straw works at all.

Algae Can Be Controlled

The most important thing to remember is that even though algae may show up in any body of water, no matter how large. There are ways to either keep it in check or rid the pond of it entirely. Some of the steps an owner might take will depend upon budget constraints, if the pond has an active fish population and any environmental concerns. However with the right knowledge, and a basic understanding of why algae grows at all, one can make progress towards a cleaner farm pond.

Is A Pond Vacuum The Best Tool For A Cleaner Water Garden?

by Mark

If you’ve ever had to clean your pond out from time to time (and most likely you have) then you know it’s not the most enjoyable job. A pond vacuum can make the task quite a bit easier but it’s important to choose and use the one that’s best suited to your needs and in truth, they’re not all created equal. Let’s explore some of the more common options and how they differ from one another.

Light Duty Muck Vacs

Muck vacs are very simple devices that use pressure created from an attached garden hose and they work well to pick up light debris and, as the name implies, mucky stuff. The water pressure necessary to run most of these will need to be at least 50 psi which is normal for most households. Usually when muck vacs produce poor results it comes down to very low water pressure which limits suction, or the task at hand is just to much for it to handle.

It should be mentioned that this type of vacuum doesn’t add water to a pond, but like all vacs, it will discharge some of the water and the debris it picks up. This waste can be routed away from the pond through a discharge hose.

When heavy leaf build up or compressed muck is involved most light duty vacuums will wilt a bit and you’ll want to move up to something more powerful.

The original muck vac, and the most widely sold brand is from a company called Odyssey. Thousands of these are now in service and helping clean small ponds and it’s estimated that only about 10% of these are returned due to poor performance.

The best way to use a muck vac, or any pond vacuum for that matter is to use them routinely. Doing so will limit the build up of muck and debris and make the pond easier to clean each time you use the vacuum. It’s best to determine what routine works best for you, whether it be every few days, weekly, or ever two weeks, and stay with that schedule throughout the season.

Powered Pond Vacuums

For many people, and particularly those with a larger backyard pond, a powered vacuum will likely be a better choice. In a general sense, the larger the horsepower or the wattage of the motor, the more powerful it will be. If you intend to use the vacuum quite regularly or have some demanding work for it, then you’ll want to opt for a larger motor to meet this demand.

One of the more popular models of powered vacuums is called the Oase Pondovac. These use dual chambers where one is designed to bring water and debris in, and the other is intended to expel or discharge material. With this system, you never have to turn the unit off to empty and and suction or cleaning as well as the discharge is continuous.

Other more traditional vacs are much like the shop vacuums you might be used to. They’ll suck up water and debris and then need to be switched to send the accumulated contents out through the discharge hose. These are usually less expensive then the dual chambered models.

Most of these vacuums come with a variety of attachments that make them versatile for cleaning. There are nozzles that make getting into cracks and crevices pretty easy and most are liner friendly, meaning then won’t damage the rubber membrane found in most small ponds. If you have rocks lining the bottom, some also have attachments to keep these from getting sucked up into the machine, although if the pebbles are very small, they may be difficult to clean with any kind of vacuum.

(Editors note: rather than putting very fine rock at the bottom of a pond we suggest using larger pebbles or even flat rock to improve the aesthetic appearance but still provide an easy to clean surface)

Another type of powered vacuum has emerged on the market which actually has the motor embedded in a submersible housing allowing it to be placed near the vacuum head. The Pond Mosta model is designed in this way and it’s specifications show that it will operate at a much deeper depth than other powered designs. With a two inch discharge hose it will handle heavier leaf debris as well.

Pond Vac Limitations

Pond vacuums offer a viable way to keep a pond cleaner during the seasons of operation. As we’ve noted, they vary in capabilities and some of them are very capable machines. With that said, they are best used for routine cleaning of muck and other things that fall into the pond from time to time. Limiting this build up will usually keep a pond cleaner and in better shape and make it a healthier place for your koi or gold fish if you have any.

Fish Pond Heaters For Winter Care

by Mark

A fish pond heater is an essential asset to water gardens or backyard ponds for maintaining healthy fish during the winter time, especially when the pond is shallow in depth. Not only do the heaters help in providing the appropriate temperatures for the survival of the fish during winter, they are also efficient in helping to discourage the development of the KHV disease, which is a common illness for koi fish during the Spring time. Due to the extreme change in water temperature between seasons, the new warmth allows for pathogens to multiply at a fast rate, which disables the immune system of the koi from retaliation. The pond heater lowers the risk of affliction by maintaining the same water temperature throughout the year.

Types of Heaters

When looking for the perfect pond heater, it is important to note the size and depth of the specific outdoor pond. In order to heat up around 250 gallons of water, it takes about 1000 watts of heat, which can help in calculating the specific size needed. Also, outdoor temperatures are an important factor in determining how many kilowatts are required and can vary, because the output of kilowatts are dependent upon the lowest temperature of the pond’s geographical location.

Submersible Pond Heaters

The most common form of pond heaters are submersible and must be completely engulfed within the water in order to properly function. These types of heaters benefit ponds that are large in size, because they are able to cover more area. Unlike pond deicers, standard pond heaters must be situated with an object to prevent the heater from touching the bottom and sides of the pond. In addition, they are also successful in keeping the whole area of water a consistent temperature, which is the healthiest option for the fish.

Floating Pond Deicer

One type of fish pond heater is a floating pond deicer, which works by floating on the surface of the pond, while using heat to keep the area covered from freezing over. The deicer comes equipped with thermo-regulators that automatically turn on when there is a shift in water temperature. This helps in preventing the built-up of gases that get trapped beneath the icy surface, which can result in the fish becoming seriously harmed. In addition to being detrimental to fish, the freezing of the water can result in cracks and other damages to concrete ponds. This could prove to be very costly in the long-run and can be avoided through the purchase of a deicer. Also, unlike standard pond heaters, deicers are easier to install and are usually a cheaper option.

Preparing Your Pond For Fall

by Mark

Fall is one of the most beautiful times of the year in most parts of the country but for pond owners, it can be a time of great challenge. With every change in the weather, your pond can be affected too.

While it’s not possible to hold off what Mother Nature brings along for your pond, with some simple steps you can deal with just about anything and keep your water garden in good shape. This is really important if you have fish or other living things in the pond because they’ll be more affected by seasonal changes than anything else.

So how do you prepare your pond as you move from summer and fall and into winter? Let’s assume for the purposes of this article that you have fish and are planning on keeping the pond open year round. The following tips should help.

Clean The Pond

Generally speaking a clean pond is a healthy one. We’re not talking about something that looks like a swimming pool by any means, but to be a great pond cleaner you’ll need to remove dead plant material, decomposing organic matter, and other accumulations that fall into the pond.

Dead plants, including algae, will pull oxygen from the water as they die off so they are best removed before they decay or get too far gone. You can trim back some plants like lilies and leave them in the lower parts of deeper ponds over the winter and as long as they don’t freeze up they should be fine.

Organic material such as dead leaves can build up at the bottom and should be removed as much as possible. As this material decays in the pond it will release nutrients into the water that feed algae growth and for most folks ,that’s something that is unwanted. Although a little bit of algae is actually a good sign for the most part.

You can use a pond net or pond vacuum to help remove some of this debris and the more you can take out of the pond the better. A skimmer may help remove some of this as it falls in the pond but even with a good skimmer you’ll still likely need to do a bit of work to clean up the bottom.

Use Pond Netting

When the leaves really begin to fall and blow around, many owners will use a pond net or netting to cover it. If you can keep leaves from falling in the water in the first place it just makes the clean up more easy.

You’ll want to find something that will adequately cover the surface area of the pond and ideally find netting with a reinforced edge as these tend to be more durable and hold up better, particularly if you know a lot of leaves will fall. This same pond netting can be used to help control some avian predators that may bother your fish. By propping up the middle of the netting with some type of support, birds like herons will not be able to land in the water and go hunting.

Use A Cold Water Beneficial Bacteria

If you have fish, one way to ensure that you never have a spike in ammonia or nitrites (both of which are toxic to fish and come from their waste), is to use a form of beneficial bacteria that’s designed for cold water.

Historically most bacteria, and those that are found in ponds naturally, will really slow down once the water temperature drops below 50 degrees. This coincides nicely with the normal feeding habits of fish during the winter too…since they also greatly reduce their feeding in cold water.

Yet for small backyard ponds, a bit of supplementation may be helpful to keep the pond in balance. Look for an all season, or cold water blend of bacteria that will work below 50 degrees and you should be fine.

Add A Heater To Your Pond

A pond heater is a simple little device that can either float on the surface of the pond or be placed at the bottom. These create an area of warmth that will keep a portion of the pond open and free from ice.

When a pond is completely covered with ice, it’s possible for gases to get trapped in the water and it’s helpful to keep the exchange of these gases and fresh air going throughout the winter. Most heaters will do an adequate job of this but you’ll want to get one that’s rated for your temperature zone.

In really cold climates some pond owners have unfortunately found their fish frozen with sustained cold temps and it goes without saying that a pond heater will help avoid that malady. For the most part they are very safe and affordable to operate.

It’s suggested that a pond be at least two feet or deeper to safely overwinter fish in them. Deeper ponds tend not to freeze completely from top to bottom which is really a worse case scenario. Regardless of the depth though, it’s a great idea to keep a bit of the surface open and a pond heater is the best tool available to do that.

As you can see by taking a few simple steps, most pond owners will avoid any major problems during the winter months. It’s important to keep an eye on things of course, and you’ll want to monitor operations even in the dead of winter, but all in all, your pond and your fish should do just fine.

Controlling Pond Weeds

by Mark

Controlling pond weeds in large ponds takes a degree of expertise and intensive management. Weeds can grow under, on, or out of the water. When populations of invasive plants exist it can interfere with the fish population, give the water a funny smell, and cause other imbalances in the farm pond ecosystem. Plankton are the only inherently beneficial forms of plant life in a farm pond. Other plants such as floating weeds, submerged weeds, and emergent weeds, are undesirable.

Removal of these nuisances can be daunting but is necessary. Mechanical removal is the first way a pond weed problem can be dealt with. This can involve the use of a cutter to maintain a weed free shoreline. A cutter can sometimes be used on semi submerged weeds such as Cattails. This is because if you cut them off under the water line they will not survive. Mowing and pulling a weed is an effective killer as well. Persistence is required with this method but you will see the fruits of your labor in the same growing season. Another tactic is to fill in or remove any parts of the pond that are less than 3 feet deep.

Biological control of pond weeds is another option. This method entails introducing a living population into the pond that is capable of controlling the undesired weeds. Usually this organism is a type of plankton that will cloud the water and make it hard for the plants to survive because of lack of sunlight and photosynthesis. Inert dies can be poured into the water as well in order to block the sunlight from reaching the weeds. This method is not effective if the plants are on the surface of the pond or growing at a depth of less than two feet. A larger organism, like a grass carp, can be released into the environment. These fish are larger vegetation consumers.

Chemical control is the most common way to control the problem. There are three basic things to consider when choosing which chemical will be most effective. The first is the time of year that you want to apply the substance. Many chemical products will not be effective throughout the summer and need to be applied early in the growing season. The kind of plant needs to be identified also. There is usually a specific killer for specific vegetation. Sometimes certain weeds, like Cattail, have chemicals that are being continually developed.

Lastly, what the water is used for is a consideration. Many chemicals are not suitable for fishing, swimming, or feeding livestock. Some even have restrictions about using the source as irrigation or spray water. Labels on the chemical are required to address this topic thoroughly. No adequate aquatic herbicide has been approved that does not have restrictions.

New chemical products as well as mechanical and biological products and techniques are being introduced all the time. Choosing which ones will work in your farm pond can be challenging but researching thoroughly will insure that the pond will be effectively managed and healthy.